Volnay vs. Pommard

Although Volnay and Pommard are only a few hundred meters apart, their wines taste distinct. The tasting was based on a direct comparison within the same varietal and vintage.

We deliberately chose the 2017 vintage because it is now open enough to allow for a good reading of individual wines, while also retaining structure for further development.

We presented Volnay through Domaine Didier Delagrange, and Pommard was represented by Domaine Lejeune.

Wineries

Domaine Didier Delagrange and Volnay

Volnay has long been associated with the more delicate side of red Burgundy. Not in terms of lightness, but in its attention to detail and precision. The reason is evident in the vineyards themselves. Plots in Volnay tend to be stonier and better drained, leading to a finer structure and faster openness in the wines. This often makes the wines more approachable at a younger age and allows more room for individual plots to express themselves.

Didier Delagrange has worked in Volnay for a long time, and his wines are based precisely on this readability. He doesn't obscure the character of individual vineyards; rather, he allows it to emerge. During the tasting, it was clear how individual Premier Crus differed even within the same appellation. Each plot had a unique character, but the winery's signature remained consistent.

Domaine Lejeune and Pommard

Pommard, in comparison to Volnay, presented differently, but that didn't mean one was better than the other. Pommard lies slightly lower on the slope and generally has more clayey soils. These soils give the wines a firmer structure and greater concentration, which doesn't open up immediately. That's why the Pommard wines appeared more closed and needed more time, while Volnay opened faster.

Domaine Lejeune is among the traditional producers in Pommard and has long focused on wines from this appellation. They cultivate several key Premier Cru plots, and their work is based on preserving the structure and character of individual vineyards. Whether it was Poutures, Epenots, or Rugiens, it always showed that the Pommard style has its place and its audience.

Wines tasted

Domaine Didier Delagrange

• Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2023
• Volnay Vieilles Vignes 2017
• Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2017
• Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 2017
• Volnay 1er Cru Santenots 2017

Domaine Lejeune

• Pommard Les 3 Follots 2017
• Pommard 1er Cru Poutures 2017
• Pommard 1er Cru Epenots 2017
• Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens 2017

Blind tasting at the end

At the end, we had a small blind test. Most participants correctly identified Pommard and the older vintage, but we then collectively determined the specific plot and vintage - Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens 2013.

It was a lovely moment that confirmed how well a comparative tasting can work. The differences we had gradually pieced together throughout the evening were suddenly clearly legible.

The evening also showcased the diversity of individual plots in Burgundy and served as a reminder that Volnay and Pommard can stand on their own. Even without Grand Cru.